Subject: Pest control
Yoram Haviv <yoram [at] loop__com> writes >Do you know of a *reliable* way to control powderpost beetle >infestation in a small item of furniture (clocks)? You requested alternative treatments for clocks infested in powderpost beetles, indicating that you are a collector and your current treatment involves the use of methyl bromide. This is a great question since it includes a whole range of issues which should be of interest to the preservation community. In addition, I respect that since these are your objects you have the absolute right to treat them as you wish. First, I'm not exactly sure what powderpost beetle you are treating for. My guess, based on the reinfestation of old wood, is that you may have Lyctid beetles, Anobiid beetles, or possibly the oldhouse borer. Knowing what you have may, or may not, change some suggestions. I am also assuming that you are primarily concerned with larval stages (i.e., the objects are acquired with active frass, but that after treatment you rarely see re-infestations, suggesting that the storage conditions after you acquire the clocks are good and there is little re-infestation). If you are treating and re-treating the same clocks then obviously I would suggest you examine your storage conditions and explore options for making it less attractive to the beetles. Second, I'm not sure that I would use methyl bromide. There is something around a 10% failure rate with methyl bromide when used to control Lyctids. In addition, while I don't know much about clock construction I would be concerned about chemical affects. Methyl bromide, for example, affects some metals and is readily absorbed by red and white oaks, resulting in long-term off-gassing. But, if methyl bromide isn't used, what is left? Well, there is sulphuryl fluoride, which is slightly less damaging to most objects. This, however, is likely no easier for you than your current fumigation. In addition, sulphuryl fluoride tends to be less effective against eggs and requires a higher dosage. You indicate that freezing is inappropriate. The next suggestion from the museum field would be non-toxic gas fumigation (i.e., nitrogen). This is a great technique, but I doubt that it would be appropriate (i.e., cost effective) for a collector (unless, of course, there was an institution or a pest control company in the area which was using the technique already--even this, however, is not something you can do in your backyard). I wonder about heat treatments. There is some literature which suggests a temperature of 49 degrees C (120 degrees F) maintained for three hours is effective against Lyctids. Would this temperature be acceptable to the glass, the metals, the wood, the finish, and the glues? I wouldn't want to expose collections to this temperature on any sort of routine basis, but perhaps it is less offensive than chemicals. I'm not sure. There is also the possibility of treating individual bore holes using a combination of silica gel and pyrethrum (one such chemical is Drione). This dust can be injected using a standard syringe. There is also the possibility of using a borax treatment on the interior of the clocks. Boron compounds have been found to be very effective against powderpost beetles. Both of these techniques, however, assume that you can reach all the interior wood surfaces. Bottom line, there is no silver bullet or simple treatment. All of the appropriate options are more or less complex. Those which have been pushed as simple are now recognized as either very unhealthy for people or very damaging to the collection or not effective. Sometimes all three are appropriate, with the perfect example being the vapona No Pest Strips--carcinogenic, corrosive to metal, fading fabrics, dissolving glues, and typically not killing insects. Best wishes, Michael Trinkley, Ph.D. Director Chicora Foundation, Inc. PO Box 8664 Columbia, SC 29202-8664 803-787-6910 *** Conservation DistList Instance 10:59 Distributed: Monday, December 30, 1996 Message Id: cdl-10-59-001 ***Received on Tuesday, 17 December, 1996