Re: [ARSCLIST] Audio cassette woes

["Peter@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <lists@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

There are two additional ways to reduce friction in the cassette.  The first
is to loosen the screws.  This allows more play inside the cassette if there
are any pack height changes that are rubbing on the inside.

The second is to make sure the new cassette housing you use has internal
guides that spin- not set as some old guides are.  Then disassemble the
cassette and bypass the fixed plastic posts inside the cassette that are
contacting the back of the tape.  Check the tape path when all of the tape
is on one hub before playing the tape.  If the front of the tape is now
touching the plastic posts, you may have to actually remove the fixed
plastic posts on the cassette you are using to transport the cassette.

If this doesn't work, try the Last Factory Lubricant.

Peter Brothers

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Association for Recorded Sound Discussion List
> [mailto:ARSCLIST@xxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Anonymous SET ARSCLIST DIGEST
> Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 8:39 AM
> To: ARSCLIST@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [ARSCLIST] Audio cassette woes
>
>
> Having successfully reformatted nearly a thousand cassettes, I
> agree with everyone that the first suspect would be the tape
> itself.  However, having had a couple tapes like you are
> describing I began to think it might be the machine.  I got a jig
> from a tape duplication friend that allowed me to measure the
> tension generated by the deck's take-up motor.  It was not nearly
> to spec.  I tried this in numerous "professional" and consumer
> decks and found none of them to spec.  The consumer one's weren't
> even close.  Of course, the "spec" is about 30 years old.  It
> seems manufacturers have cut corners on the quality of the motors
> over the years.  What that means is if there is any friction at
> all in the cassette mechanism, the motor can't pull it.  Your
> problem could be a combination of factors.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Kevin Irelan
>
>