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Re: [ARSCLIST] LP sized scanner



And if you do it in less than your skivvies, watch out for reflections in the finished product.

Steve Smolian

----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Kinch" <bckinch@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <ARSCLIST@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [ARSCLIST] LP sized scanner



Having taught photography for 30 years, I'll comment on several posts-
On Feb 29, 2008, at 1:06 PM, Richard L. Hess wrote:

Hi, Tom,

The classic approach is two floods at 45-degree angle. You can use lower-power lamps and with the digicam you don't need to use a filter like you used to with auto white balance, but beware, you may end up with more blue channel noise in the digicam image without the filter than with.

If you don't do a custom white balance, the color of the cover can affect how the camera "interprets" things



If I were doing a bunch of these, I'd probably set up a tripod with lights (I don't like the elCheapo copy stand I bought) and put them on the floor and use my D200 and the 60 mm micro-Nikkor.

I should also comment that you would want a 90 degree finder for any copystand or other vertical arrangement.


If you are lighting the stuff at 45 degrees look at the edges for reflections where the cover material wraps around. You can do crossed polarizers on lights and camera, but the lights will burn most polarizing material.

45 degree is just a ballpark. A 12x12 mirror tile will be better to position the light. You also aim them at the far side of the copy, so the light "feathers" as distance increases.

If you are happy with the colour balance, you can use Chroma 50 fluorescent tubes and that will provide a more even and cooler light. Again 45 degrees on two sides, but now there are no round hotspots, as you've got 2' line fixtures which are larger than your target. You may still see some gradient across between the two tubes, adjusting them should balance that out. If you get utility reflectors that's probably better than bare bulbs as it provides more of an option for evening out the light.


I don't know how many you're doing, but if you're doing 100, it makes sense I think to get the fluroescents and give them a try. Finding 2-foot Chroma 50 lamps may be a bit of a challenge, but a good hardware store or photo store ought to be able to order them for you. I'll bet B&H stocks them.

Chroma 50 means daylight (5000k) balance. Ideally, a bulb use with over 95 color accuracy rating. I use Philips F32T8/950 thoughout the studio. Best around last time I looked, and a local bulb store had them in stock.

Nothing is perfect, of course, and even the chroma 50s are a discontinuous line spectrum, but incandescent lamps create so much heat and unless you use four, are subject to hotspotting on albums and can't easily be fitted with polarizing sheets (as they melt). Lower wattage incandescent lamps (like 75 W or 65 W reflector floods) tend to have rougher patterns than true photo lamps, and also a lower yet colour temperature (maybe 2900 instead of 3200 for true, hot photo lamps). The lower the colour temperature, the more relative noise in the blue channel as you boost the colour balance in the camera -- that can be overcome by an 80A filter.


I agree, use a daylight fluorescent if you can't do the work in your skivvies.

Bruce



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