Having taught photography for 30 years, I'll comment on several posts-
On Feb 29, 2008, at 1:06 PM, Richard L. Hess wrote:
Hi, Tom,
The classic approach is two floods at 45-degree angle. You can use 
lower-power lamps and with the digicam you don't need to use a filter 
like you used to with auto white balance, but beware, you may end up with 
more blue channel noise in the digicam image without the filter than 
with.
If you don't do a custom white balance, the color of the cover can affect 
how the camera "interprets" things
If I were doing a bunch of these, I'd probably set up a tripod with 
lights (I don't like the elCheapo copy stand I bought) and put them on 
the floor and use my D200 and the 60 mm micro-Nikkor.
I should also comment that you would want a 90 degree finder for any 
copystand or other vertical arrangement.
If you are lighting the stuff at 45 degrees look at the edges for 
reflections where the cover material wraps around. You can do crossed 
polarizers on lights and camera, but the lights will burn most polarizing 
material.
45 degree is just a ballpark. A 12x12 mirror tile will  be better to 
position the light. You also aim them at the far side of the copy, so the 
light "feathers" as distance increases.
If you are happy with the colour balance, you can use Chroma 50 
fluorescent tubes and that will provide a more even and cooler light. 
Again 45 degrees on two sides, but now there are no round hotspots, as 
you've got 2' line fixtures which are larger than your target. You may 
still see some gradient across between the two tubes, adjusting them 
should balance that out. If you get utility reflectors that's probably 
better than bare bulbs as it provides more of an option for evening out 
the light.
I don't know how many you're doing, but if you're doing 100, it makes 
sense I think to get the fluroescents and give them a try. Finding 2-foot 
Chroma 50 lamps may be a bit of a challenge, but a good hardware store or 
photo store ought to be able to order them for you. I'll bet B&H stocks 
them.
Chroma 50 means daylight (5000k) balance. Ideally, a bulb use with over 95 
color accuracy rating. I use Philips F32T8/950 thoughout the studio. Best 
around last time I looked, and a local bulb store had them in stock.
Nothing is perfect, of course, and even the chroma 50s are a 
discontinuous line spectrum, but incandescent lamps create so much heat 
and unless you use four, are subject to hotspotting on albums and can't 
easily be fitted with polarizing sheets (as they melt). Lower wattage 
incandescent lamps (like 75 W or 65 W reflector floods) tend to have 
rougher patterns than true photo lamps, and also a lower yet colour 
temperature (maybe 2900 instead of 3200 for true, hot photo lamps). The 
lower the colour temperature, the more relative noise in the blue channel 
as you boost the colour balance in the camera -- that can be overcome by 
an 80A filter.
I agree, use a daylight fluorescent if you can't do the work in your 
skivvies.
Bruce